Pt Reyes - Bear Valley to Arch Rock

"To cross this valley to the peninsula (Point Reyes) is to leave modern California and enter an island of wilderness, forgotten by progress, a quiet land misplaced in a noisy world."

-Stephen Trimble

Locale: Point Reyes National Seashore, Olema, Marin County, CA
Date: Saturday, June 27, 2008
Duration: 8.8 miles (4.5 hours)
Price: Free
Activity Level: Easy
All in All: A great way to spend a morning or afternoon stroll to the ocean.
Rating: ****
Maps and More Info: http://www.nps.gov/pore

I love Point Reyes. I don't think I can emphasize this notion any other way then to simply express it. It's not very far away from the Bay Area and offers people such an array of things to do. Whether it's hiking, camping, kayaking or just eating oysters. In fact I get so upset when I find Bay Area natives who have never been here. I have only lived here for 2 years and could not imagine living here my whole life without escaping to this national seashore. This particular hike is easy to get to, far easier than the Palomarin hike. Simply from 101N or S from either San Fran or the north, take the Sir Francis Drake exit near San Quentin. Follow this through the cities of Fairfax and San Anselmo through Samuel P Taylor Park into the small town of Olema. Once at the stop sign in front of numerous Olema lodges, turn right, followed by a quick left on Bear Valley rd. Take this left past the red barn to the end of the lot by the visitor's center. Though we didn't spend much time perusing the center, it offers books, maps, a donation box and a few exhibits.

There are many trailheads here but take the Bear Valley trailhead at the end of the horse trailer parking lot to begin. You'll stay on Bear Valley Trail all the way except for a small bit approaching Arch Rock - just follow the signs. This trail is so simple that you do not need a map or compass, all you need to do is stay on the trail and take in the fresh air. In our case, it was a bit of smoky air coming from the numerous wildfires. But this and the cool weather didn't stop us or dozens of other hikers we saw on the trail. As I hear, the Bear Valley hike is one of the most popular Point Reyes hikes. I could tell just by parking in the lot. There were scores of cars and we passed many families and campers on the trail as well.

The beginning of the hike leads you into woodsy area with Bear Valley Creek to the left side. At around 1.6 miles in, you will see a bathroom and carved out trees made into benches. This is a good spot to have a quick break if you need, though you have about 7 more miles to travel.

About a mile before Arch Rock, there's a bike rack. Weird, huh? Not really. Bicyclists are allowed on the trails to this point and are expected to park here for the remainder of their hike or stay. If you do not sharing trails with equestrians then I suggest taking the hike on the weekends even if it's a bit more crowded. Equestrians aren't allowed here on the weekends but you will definitely be stepping in and around horse droppings.

The hike to Arch Rock is around 4.4 miles after which, you turn back and go the way you came. Approaching Arch Rock is exciting because if you've been driving on Sir Francis Drake, you have yet to see the beautiful Pacific. When the trail splits into two, take the left descending trail. At this point you will not be able to see the ocean quite yet but you can hear it. Soon enough though you see Arch Rock with people around sitting enjoying a brief lunch. This is what I like about Pt Reyes, it's ability to completely astound you. Atop Arch Rock you will see the beach below and many cliffs to either side of you and below. The trail continues down to the beach as well if you like to get closer to the water. We chose to simply sit and have a snack and watch seagulls.

Before we headed back, we saw a group of kayakers go by and waved at them. It was still a bit smoky and cloudy but it was still a wonderful view to take in. I can never deny a day at Point Reyes. When ready, turn back and follow Bear Valley Trail the way you came in. Hopefully you'll enjoy this featured hike as much as I did. Though I did enjoy the Palomarin hike to Alamere Falls a bit better, Bear Valley still has me wanting to come back for more.

Land's End - Coastal Trail

“The writer loves the fog as it pours in; he loves the sun when the fog pours out. The rest of California is Beach Boys country, but San Francisco has that moody thing going on, those blues notes wrapped in moisture, an atmosphere that tempers California dreaming and makes life more real. But he loves the sun, too, that Frisbee-tossing, forehead-baking golden sun that prevents the loss of eight months of the year to winter. The fog brings reality, but it is still a California reality, one spent outdoors the whole year round.”

-Eric Maisel

Locale: Land's End-Coastal Trail, San Francisco, CA

Date: Sunday, June 8, 2008

Duration: 3.5 miles (2.5 hours)

Price: Free

Activity: Easy

All in All: A great walk through Sutro ruins, beaches, and Sea Cliff

Rating: ****

Maps & More Info: http://www.traillink.com/ViewTrail.aspx?AcctID=6031673

If you have a few hours to kill and are in the city, you might want to trek down to this easy brief hike in between China and Ocean Beaches. Follow Geary straight towards the water and park along the street down by the Cliff House. Currently the big parking lot at Merrie Way is under construction and you can't park here but there's plenty of parking across the street. Start by walking along the Sutro Bath ruins. As many locals know, this once housed a large pool house surrounded by the Pacific, theaters and artifacts. It was built by millionaire mayor Adolph Sutro in the late 1800's. It was later destroyed by the big earthquake and fires. Now all that's left is the foundation of some of it and muddy water but look at the picture of what it once was (found at Louis' Restaurant) and you can imagine why thousands flocked to it everyday. After exploring the ruins climb back up to the sidewalk and up to the intersection at the top of the hill and you'll find coastal trail on the left. It starts on a paved double path. Up ahead you'll see the Golden Gate and you'll hear the sounds of an old lighthouse.

Most likely you'll be accompanied by runners, bicyclists, tourists and dog walkers. The trail eventually becomes dirt and you will climb stairs. At the end of Coastal Trail, continue along the sidewalk on El Camino Del Mar. You are now in wealthy country and you won't be mistaken by this once you see the mansions and beautiful multimillion dollar houses that make up the Sea Cliff neighborhood home to many of the rich and/or famous such as Robin Williams. Continue straight until you see a road going down on your left to China Beach. Enjoy a nice picnic or wade through the cold waters of the ocean while taking in some rays and enjoying the great views of the Golden Gate and the Marin Headlands beyond it.

Walking back to your car - just follow the same way that you arrived along Coastal Trail. If you long down at the cliffs below you may see some remnants from shipwrecks. These spots are pointed out on a large map post at the end of the trail.

Wildcat Canyon Regional Park

"Wilderness is the raw material out of which
man has hammered the artifact called civilization."
-Aldo Leopold

Locale: Wildcat Canyon Regional Park, San Pablo, Contra Costa County, CA
Date: Sunday, June 1, 2008
Duration: 7 miles (3.5 hours)
Price: Free
Activity: Moderate with a strenuous uphill section
All in All: A great hike with wonderful views of the best of the bay area.
Rating: ***1/2
Maps and More Info: http://www.ebparks.org/parks/wildcat

The hike is fairly easy to get to and also fairly easy to follow as well. If you are coming from San Francisco on I-80, turn on the Amador/Solano exit at San Pablo and drive a few blocks east on Amador and then right on McBryde. If coming from the north on I-80 go on the McBryde exit and turn left onto it. After about .5 mile you'll see Wildcat Canyon park. Parking is a bit sparse but maybe you'll get lucky as we did. Admire the goats before starting. Start the hike at the entrance cattle gate on paved road. For those of you who do not like hiking on paved or blacktopped roads, I'd suggest not going here but it's maybe for about 2 or 2.5 miles of the hike.

The trailhead is on wildcat creek trail, follow this for about half mile and turn left onto Belgum Trail, that's Belgum, not BELGIUM. Belgum is named after a nurse named Belgum who used to work at the sanitarium which was along this trail. Stop and read the signs to find out more. In the early 1900's a sanitarium for those with "nervous disorders" as they were called before the DSM came out, was located near a few palm trees (which are still there now). Long after it was abandoned, vandals just had to burn it to the ground. You will continue on Belgum for a few miles and climbing up to the summit. Behind you, you will start to see expansive views of San Francisco, the Bay Bridge, Golden Gate, Mt. Tam and even northwards.
Once you think you're at the top you are not. Past the bench on the left, you will see two hills. One fairly close and one in the distance. You will be climbing both of these hills. The first hill has the steepest stretch. Turn right on San Pablo Ridge Trail right before the first hill. Climb upwards, rest a bit, and climb a bit more and then take in the view.

Follow San Pablo Ridge for awhile as it flattens before you reach the second hill in the distance. You'll pass by cattle which are grazing the land. But don't try to frighten them as they may grunt at you or even charge.

Continue up the second hill and shortly after you'll reach a cattle gate. You will then be on Nimitz Way Trail. After about a mile, turn right on Havey Canyon Trail. This will take you into the woods for some comfort shade. One thing to note on this hike is that it can get very still and warm in certain areas, cold and windy at the top of the hills and then cool in the shaded woods. On Havey Canyon, you'll also cross a small creek and follow this trail for around 1.5 miles. Turn right onto Wildcat Creek Canyon for the last 2 miles. The last bit is paved and familiar but is mainly flat the whole time. This hike is pretty convenient for East-Bayers and offer some great views at the top of the hills. Recently, a mountain lion and her cub were located so if you are looking for wildlife, this may be the right place. We saw some wild turkeys. The hike may not be the most traveled nor the most beautiful but it is unique.

Marin Headlands: Hill 88 and Pt. Bonita Lighthouse Loop

"In all things of nature, there is something of the marvelous."
-Aristotle

Locale: Marin Headlands Hill 88 Loop to Lighthouse, Sausalito, Marin County, CA
Date: Sunday, May 25, 2008
Duration: 8.6 miles (5+ hours due to wait at lighthouse)
Price: Free
All in All: Arguably the most beautiful hike the Bay Area has to offer
Rating: *****
Maps & More Info: http://www.nps.gov/goga/marin-headlands.htm

This long and heavy-moderate hike was my favorite of all hikes completed thus far. It has a touch of everything - ocean, beach, gorgeous views of the golden gate bridge, history. This particular hike begins at the visitor center. Go across the Golden Gate from the south or Hwy 101 from the north, get on the first exit before or after the bridge (depending upon which way you're coming) at Alexander Ave. Turn onto Conzelman rd and follow a few miles passed bicyclists and tourists, turn left at the bottom of a hill and soon you'll see the presidio-like buildings, one of which is the center. Follow the signs to the visitor center parking lot. I highly encourage you to go inside before your hike. You'll see artifacts, stuffed birds and a convenient gift shop where you can buy anything from hiking books to t-shirts to snacks. If you do not feel like purchasing a big map of the area, there's a free paper map on the counter for this hike.

Begin at the end of the parking lot by the bathrooms and follow trail to the right, cross the road to the warehouse and start on Miwok Trail which is to the right of the warehouse. You will stay on Miwok for the next 1.6 miles, it will be flat for the first .5 mile or so and then will steadily climb away from the water, curving up the hills bringing vast views of the headlands.

After climbing the first long hill, turn left onto Wolf Ridge Trail which is a single track trail (you may be glad to get rid of those fast bicyclists). Wolf Ridge continues to go uphill steeply, be careful of footing in places. At 2.7 miles into the hike, turn left on Coastal Trail to the top of Hill 88, you already will get a prized view of the Rodeo Beach and the Pacific side of the bridge. As you go up the paved walkway to the top of Hill 88, you will start hearing the lighthouse which is only open Sat through Monday from 12:30-3:30. At the top of Hill 88, you will see marvelous views and graffiti laced buildings. The graffiti ranges from standard gang tags to x loves y to political statements.


Now go back down the way you came and continue down on the paved Coastal trail to the beach below. You will pass bunkers and continue on dirt and paved trails. Before getting to the beach walk through the Battery Townsley tunnels, here is where one of the missile launching sites was. Continue downwards to the beach.







You may feel a bit out of place as we did crossing the beach in our camelbaks and trekking poles but with a sunny warm day and tides coming in, who cares? Continue to trek alongside the beach to the other side where you will go up the bluffs nearest the water. Keep right to go towards a bunch of green buildings - this is the YMCA staff buildings. Go right after the lot to the rd up to the Battery Mendell which looks like this:

Climb up the stairs to the top and explore the building before continuing on the dirt trails behind it. You are now 6+ miles into the hike but the best is still yet to come. Walk alongside the dirt path on the cliff through some brush to the radar tower. Next to it is another graffiti painted building. You can go up to the second story but DONT LOOK DOWN IF AFRAID OF HEIGHTS. Below is a 100 foot fall or more to a private beach where rough waves hit the rocks and pieces of metal from an old shipwreck are still ashore. After going down the steep stairs, continue on the dirt path around the fence. Go left on the dirt trail, you'll see tourists walking down the paved road towards the lighthouse. Follow them.


The paved road will take you downhill onto a fenced bridge and then through a tunnel. Be sure to get there when the lighthouse is open or else you'll be SOL. We managed to get in line (at the other end of the tunnel) about 15 minutes before closing. A volunteer will be talking to you about the lighthouse as you wait. The suspension bridge to the lighthouse was built in 1953 and is a bit... unsteady. In fact they only allow 2-3 people at a time to go across it as it is starting to erode and it does bounce when you go across. Once you are to the other side, explore the lighthouse, it can get a bit chilly here as well so have a sweater handy. You'll wait in line again to cross the bridge. After, continue back the way you came until to the parking lot. Now follow the road to the left, cross the road and go up the dirt track to the Battery Wallace. Go through the tunnel and turn left and follow the road until it curves downhill, you'll see the beach to the left and the familiar buildings. Turn right at the stop sign and follow the road back down the next .5 miles to the visitor center. When leaving on Field Rd, there is a 5 minute stoplight in front of a bike tunnel to enjoy. Hopefully you're hike will be a fulfilling as ours and with history and beauty that this hike brings, we'll most likely be back.

Samuel P. Taylor State Park

"This is the foundation of all. We are not to imagine or suppose, but to discover, what nature does or may be made to do."

-Francis Bacon

Locale: Samuel P Taylor State Park, Laguintas, Marin County, CA

Date: Saturday, May 9, 2008

Duration: 7 miles (4 hours)

Price: Free

All in All: A rainforest-like hike to the peak with glorius sunny views to the bottom.

Rating: ****

Maps & More Info: http://www.parks.ca.gov/default.asp?page_id=469

Getting to this trailhead is fairly easy. Go onto Hwy 101 from San Francisco or 580 from East Bay, past the San Rafael Bridge and take the Sir Francis Drake exit. Follow Drake for about 17 miles through small towns, after Laguintas you will see Samuel P Taylor Park entrance, keep going one mile until you see Devil's Gulch Camp on the right. There's a small dirt lot on the left, park here, admire the swimming hole/creek then cross the road to the camp to start the hike. The first .1 mile of the trail is paved blacktop and the creek will below on your right. Turn right at onto the wooden bridge. Now turn left onto Bill's Trail. This is the trail that will take you to Barnabe Peak. Over one hundred years ago, Samuel Taylor inhabited the area where he set up one of the first papermills in California alongside his wife and eight children. He also invented the first paper grocery bag. Barnabe Peak is named after his beloved mule Barnabe. The 4 plus mile climb to the peak is easy (until you reach the fire tower area).

The climb to the summit is filled with wildlife surprises as well as cool comfortable shade. The 4 miles to the summit are forthe most part quite easy. There are quite a number of small foot bridges and switchbacks but the trail is graded ever so slightly and you don't even notice you're gaining altitude if it wasn't for the hills levelling off with your point of views and the creek getting lower beneath you.

After a mile or so you'll see the step waterfalls trail, take this for a short dead end to see the waterfalls which when we went were just above a trickle. We could see where the water flows through and makes a crevace during the winter months but on our hike, just a long trickle of water flew down to us. After stopping here, return to Bill's Trail and go left to continue onwards.

We saw many lizards, garter snakes and a few squirrels on the trail.

After about 4.2 miles, you reach a wide open area with nothing in front of you but some grass, a wide dirt trail and a breathtaking view of forest lands, San Pablo Bay, and hills. To the left the trail continues up to the fire tower station. This part is optional, you may either climb the moderate stretch to the top or continue down back to the trailhead. We continued to climb up to the tower. From now on there will be very little shade so put on the sunblock. The short rest of the climb to the tower was much steeper but brief. The tower was closed up but here we found better views. A 360 angle of lush landscapes surrounded us. If it wasn't for a small parking lot below full of cars, I'd say it was perfect. Continue back down the wide trail. The somewhat steep descent will bring you to Samuel P. Taylor's gravesite on the left. Stop here to read more about him and his wife. I mysteriously have been choosing state parks with cemeteries on them lately, hmm. After stopping at the bench, return to the trail and follow it back to the wooden bridge you crossed earlier, turn left onto the paved road and cross Sir Francis Drake to your car.

Jack London State Park

"I write for no other reason then to add to the beauty
that now belongs to me. I write a book for no other reason
then to add three or four hundred acres to my magnificent estate."
-Jack London

Locale: Jack London State Park, Glen Ellen, Sonoma County, CA
Date: Saturday, May 3, 2008
Duration: ~6 miles (took us 3.5 hours)
Price: $6
All in All: A hike that takes you back into the early 1900's
Rating: ****
Maps and more info: http://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=478
For those who have read London's most famous books ("Call of the Wild", "White Fang") in school to those who are avid London fans and even to those whom never heard of Jack London, this hike offers a great treat. Nearly one hundred years ago, London bought this 1400 acre ranch in Glen Ellen along for almost $27,000 with his second wife Charmian. It was his dream home that brought charm, happy memories and tragedy as well. A few days before the couple was to move in, a fire took place burning their original plan of the home. Later they moved into the wooden cottage which is found near the parking lot.

The London's Cottage.

To get to Glen Ellen (a small quaint town with cute restaurants and shops named after Jack London) get onto CA 37 from either Hwy 80 east or from 101 N, from 37 get onto CA 121 and go straight for about 7 miles, continue straight at a 76 station onto Arnold Drive. This is also CA 116. Follow this into Glen Ellen which will be about 9 miles after the gas station. On your left go to London Ranch Road and follow it to the kiosk.

Feel free to first park in the lot on the left of the kiosk. Here will be the museum, grave sites, and wolf house. Visit the museum for some really interesting tidbits about the Londons. The House of Happy Walls was built following Jack London's death by his wife. There are rooms with her old clothes, artifacts from their adventures, helpful park employees and even an opportunity to buy or peruse his books. After leaving here follow the signs to the grave site. It's about .5 miles from the museum.

At the grave site, look to your right. You will see a picketed fenced square with two grave stones (most likely the original wooden markers). These two siblings were young children who died in the 1800's. Their names were David and Lillie Greenslaw who were pioneer children living on the ranch. Illness cut their lives short. London found these graves one day and soon announced to his family that when he died he wished to just be buried in this place with a boulder over him. This is precisely what happened in 1916 when 39 year old London perished in his cottage. Some still believe suicide was the root of his early death but his death certificate states uremic poisoning. Charmian placed his ashes nearby and placed a boulder over them. In 1955, Charmian died at the ranch and also had her ashes buried here.

From here, if you like may continue .15 miles to the wolf house then follow the road back to the parking lot. Once back at the lot you may either drive or walk to the other parking lot on the right side of the kiosk where you drove in. Follow the path up past the picnic benches and grills and you will now see barns and London's cottage. Proceed into the house and donate a few bucks to the save a park foundation who are trying to earn money to restore London's lake.

London's writing room.

Apart from the front desk and tourists in modern day clothing, it is exactly the same as it would've been ninety years ago. The hallway especially feels as if you were transported through time. The writing room caught my attention the most. On the right there was his safe where he put his drafts in case of fire and on the left was a sleeping porch in which he died. After leaving the cottage, tour the area and look at the barns, the old workers' quarters, and what is that? Cacti?

London did many experiments on his farm, many failed, including growing spineless cacti for the horses. Read the sign at this site for more interesting insights before continuing on the main path past the vineyard.
Past the vineyard, tour the pig palace and silos and return to lake trail. Continue on Lake Trail for about a half a mile then continue on it by turning right at the cattle gate. Climb slightly up another half mile until you reach the lake at the right (you'll have to climb a small grade to see it). Here is where London took his guests fishing and swimming. Today it looks very unappealing. It's full of moss and sediment. It has shrunk to half it's size. There are brochures if you wish to help donate money to restore the lake.
After the lake follow Mountain Trail. The next 2.5 miles to the summit of the park. Sonoma Mountain actually continues passed the park on private land. We actually went about 2/3 of the way up Mountain Trail which is actually not too steep for being labeled a 'mountain' until we saw a sign stating the summit was closed for restoration. We were going to continue anyways but were short on time as the park closes at 5. We were disappointed that there wasn't a sign at the lake but never the less we continued back down through the redwoods. If you wish to reach the summit, ask or call ahead to see if it's open. On the right you will see Quarry Trail, go on it for about .5 miles and then turn left on Vineyard Trail and Vineyard Rd until you get to a cougar crossing. Continue up the bank until you're back at the lake. From here go back the way you came back to the parking lot.
Leaving the park, we stopped at Jack London Village for dinner and free chocolate samples. It hit the spot after a nice hike that took us back into literary history. I encourage you to do the same. We ate at Bluegrass Restaurant presumably known for their great BBQ. After the first few hundred yards of hiking a new why London called his ranch magnificent. With all the wildlife and acres of redwoods just feet from my front door, I would be content as well.